Gourmet

We adopted contributing editor Jon Rowley's technique for poaching salmon in water salted like the sea. This method imparts a touch of brine and enables the other seasonings to permeate the fish. Cut into very thick steaks instead of left whole, the fish is easier to handle and doesn't require a poacher. The creamy sauce makes for a sophisticated finish.

Slow-roasting at a very low temperature results in extremely tender salmon. The richness of the fish is accented by a salty-sweet red-wine sauce, which thickens into a syrupy glaze during cooking.

Bacon and a little cream give this chowder lashings of decadence — but, because there are no thickeners, it's surprisingly light.

Salmon are gorgeous, and a whole one — completely boned — makes a breathtaking centerpiece. A savory stuffing of roasted fennel and plum tomatoes transforms the fish into a meal in itself, complemented by a creamy basil sauce with orange zest and saffron.

Mama Sugar says this dish was common at Juneteenth celebrations years ago but is now seldom seen. It's a homey dessert, substantial and rich with butter and cane syrup, and it deserves a comeback.

On a recent visit to London, Knauer overheard a local in a pub ordering a "Guinness and Black" — which turned out to be the famous Irish stout plus a shot of blackberry brandy. That combination is also the genius behind these floats; the brandy's luscious fruitiness bridges the gap between the sweet ice cream and bitter beer.

Just when the crowd thinks you're done with the grill, surprise them with this; the romaine's leaves char slightly but stay fresh and crisp. With grilled croutons and garlicky Caesar anchovy dressing, this is a salad that even chest-beating carnivores can get behind.

Grilled and then tossed with a simple mustard vinaigrette, these vegetables turn tender and juicy, providing an ideal foil for the hearty grilled steaks.

Since these potatoes are "hasslebacked," or sliced accordion-style, before baking, the scallions and bacon fat really penetrate; the sour cream and bacon are the icing on the cake. (The dish has been known to elicit marriage proposals from strangers and tears from bacon lovers.)

It's made from one of the hottest chiles on earth, so heat seekers can slather the salsa all over their rib eyes with bravado; but those with refined taste buds will appreciate how the peppers' sweet fruitiness cuts through the rich, meaty steaks.

Though it's not a true ceviche, since the scallops are already cooked when they hit the marinade, the classic combination of refreshing citrus acid from orange and lime juice, heat from jalapeño, crunch from cucumber, and sweetness from the scallops themselves becomes even more intriguing with the added layer of flavor from the grill. This is the perfect way to start off this menu, as the bold marinade stirs up the appetite for the substantial main course.

If strawberry shortcake hailed from the Middle East, it might taste like this. Toasting the almonds lets their essence permeate the cake, making it a lovely partner for strawberries that have been macerated in lemon juice and just a hint of rose water. A dollop of freshly beaten cream melds the two beautifully.

Wishy-washy greens needn't apply: A gorgeously balanced symphony of peppery and bitter greens, cut with a lemony vinaigrette that makes the feta go creamy, and an occasional pop of sticky, sweet date, this is sure to become your go-to salad all summer long.

The way cinnamon expands the dimensions of brown butter means that you won't overtly taste the spice here, just pasta with deep, rich, nutty undertones. Chopped parsley freshens every bite.

Radishes, when roasted, lose their bite and perfectly complement the mellow sweetness of cooked zucchini.

You can't beat the drama — not to mention the deliciousness — of a bone-in leg of lamb. Since it is a thick cut, a garlic, lemon, and spice paste is rubbed all over it and tucked deep inside to penetrate the meat; slow-cooking over indirect heat results in a crisp, smoke-infused crust and a juicy, medium-rare center.