Gourmet

Spinach and strawberry salad had its moment in the '80s, but this version will surprise you with its refinement. The salad is not sweet, just aromatic — and coming across fresh berries every now and then provides bursts of fruitiness. The pecans are simply toasted, but once they're coated with vinaigrette, you'd swear they were candied. Raspberries would work well here, too.

If you haven't had maque choux — corn and tomatoes stewed together — you're really in for a treat. In this favorite Cajun dish, the corn gains a lush, savory sauciness, while the tomato benefits from the kernels' gentle chew. Here, okra is added and cooked just until tender, bringing its own unique texture to the mix.

As in the classic recipe from Richard Olney's Simple French Food that inspired this one, two key innovations ensure a moist, incredibly succulent chicken. First, the birds are spatchcocked, meaning they're butterflied and spread flat so that both the white meat and the dark can be perfectly cooked; second, an herbed-ricotta filling is pushed under the skin, puffing slightly during cooking and extending the meat's flavor in a creamy direction. Actually, you'll notice how much we liked the filling — we call for extra to be baked in a separate dish so that everyone gets a helping. The filling becomes a cross between a popover and a soufflé in texture, with oregano and parsley supplying a suggestion of the Provençal countryside.

• Filling can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature before using. • Pissaladière strips can be baked 3 hours ahead and kept, uncovered, at room temperature.

We're convinced that red trout is well worth looking for. We love its firm texture, its delicate flavor, and its gorgeous pink flesh, which here contrasts beautifully with the green pesto—an all-purpose sauce that would taste great with just about any type of fish or pasta.

Whether assertive farmers-market mesclun or a delicate supermarket mix, these greens require little more than a light lemony vinaigrette — and one that can be made quickly embraces the simplicity of the leaves.

The classic cold soup seems almost restrained next to this lusty dish — gazpacho ingredients are grilled, then tossed with pasta and cheese (some of the vegetables are puréed to make a tangy sauce that lightly cloaks the whole). The sausages are cooked separately, so this recipe will come in handy when there are vegetarians around.

If a bite of this clean, bright "pâté" transports you to a sunny beach on Nantucket, that's because it's inspired by a similar spread offered at the island's Straight Wharf Fish Store. This rendition can be whipped up effortlessly, but it's a substantial and statement-making appetizer nonetheless.

When you've had your fill of ripe peaches eaten out of hand, peel the rest for this fruity-tangy sauce. Brush it on grilled pork or chicken toward the end of cooking, and serve extra on the side. And who could say no to a dab of leftover sauce on a cream cheese — topped cracker?

This recipe alone is reason enough to grab your tote bag and head to the farmers market. Blackberry Farm dresses up the dish with parmesan foam and a drizzle of aged balsamic vinegar, but the ingredients stand on their own beautifully. Slip a fried egg on top, and you have an easy summer supper.

We tried making this oil with Sichuan peppercorns that were not ground but found eating them whole just too numbing. Like the red-chile oil above, it's the perfect thing for adding a final blitz of flavor.

We like to make up a batch of this oil and keep it on hand for seasoning Asian dishes just before serving.

A signature food of Yunnan (each town has its own version, available at every restaurant and street stall), bean jelly has the consistency of very firm Jell-O. The vinegar and chile in this dish reflect the proximity of Sichuan province. For sources for the mung-bean starch, Chinese black vinegar, and daikon.

Many of the minority peoples of Yunnan traditionally boil a chicken to show respect to their dead. Once the ceremony is finished, they shred the meat and mix it with ginger, garlic, and cilantro to make "ghost chicken." The lime in this recipe, unusual for Chinese cooking, suggests the influence of Southeast Asia, which the province borders.

This paste showcases the layered flavors typical of Southeast Asian cooking. While the lemongrass does require a bit of work, its subtle but penetrating flavor is key. Adjust the amount of jalapeño peppers according to your heat tolerance and the heat level of the chiles you are using. We also like to use this spice paste on any type of grilled lamb.

The flavors of Mexico enliven this very adaptable spice paste, which is excellent on grilled beef and chicken as well as pork. If you want to make the flavor even more complex, substitute crushed chile de árbol, dried pasilla, or New Mexico chiles for the red-pepper flakes.

Though there are plenty of chiles in this paste, they don't overpower it. The aromatic bite of coriander, the earthiness of cumin, and the licorice trace of caraway seeds create a pleasingly complex flavor. This paste is also delicious with pork.

Some of us prefer the taste of grilled lobster to boiled. The smokiness of the fire balances the richness of the meat while simultaneously intensifying its flavor.

This dish showcases salmon and the bright, fresh flavor of early-summer sugar snap peas in a dish that's perfect for a lunch with friends or a light dinner eaten outdoors. Broiling the delicate paillards seals in the juices and makes preparation a breeze.

Removing the bones from salmon steaks is surprisingly easy, and you'll get filletlike quality at a lower price. Here, we've grilled the steaks to intensify their flavor, and paired them with the sharp bite of horseradish.