For some time I had been thinking: How can I pare down a classic meat sauce for those occasions when I have neither the time to make nor the voracity to consume a full-scale ragù? The sauce below is the answer I came up with. I replaced beef with veal; eliminated the milk, the wine, the carrot, and the celery; and reduced the cooking time from several hours to half of one. It is as easy to take as it is to do. Is it a favorite dish? Sure — it is my favorite simple meat sauce.
Suggested pasta: The ideal carrier for this simple meat sauce is a homemade noodle, in particular one scented with rosemary and sage, cut into fettuccine or tonnarelli. Boxed dry pasta in a short tubular shape such as penne or maccheroncini can be a satisfactory alternative.
The sauce may be cooked a day in advance and refrigerated in a tightly sealed container or in a bowl under plastic wrap. When reheating, add a tablespoon of water, bring to a gentle simmer, stir occasionally, and cook until hot through and through.
Recipe information
Yield
Makes enough sauce for 1 pound of pasta, making 4 large or 6 small servings
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
If you are using fresh tomatoes, peel them by dipping them in boiling water for 1 minute, then squeeze off their skin. Halve the tomatoes, scoop out their seeds without squeezing, and chop up coarsely.
Step 2
Put 2 tablespoons of butter and the vegetable oil in a small saucepan and turn on the heat to medium high. Cook the onion, stirring from time to time, until it becomes colored a pale gold.
Step 3
Add the ground veal, and turn it over several times, using a wooden spoon, to brown it all over.
Step 4
Add the cut-up tomato, salt, and several grindings of pepper, and with your wooden spoon turn over all ingredients two or three times. Cook at a steady but gentle simmer for 15 to 20 minutes.
Step 5
Cook and drain the pasta and toss it immediately and thoroughly with the sauce, swirling into it the remaining tablespoon of butter and the grated Parmesan.
