This traditional risotto is a showcase for two of the great foods of Lombardy: the rice itself and Gorgonzola, the region’s superb blue cheese. Here the cheese is more than a garnish (which I recommend in other riso recipes); it is the very essence of the dish. You blend in a generous half-pound of Gorgonzola just before serving, when the al dente risotto comes off the heat, to bring out the full flavor of the cheese, unaltered by cooking. This deserves a top-quality, genuine imported Gorgonzola, preferably not too piquant. I like sweet and creamy Gorgonzola Dolce, aged no more than 3 months. In Lombardy, chunks of fresh ripe pear are sometimes incorporated into risotto alla Gorgonzola. When pears are in season, it is easy to give the basic risotto this wonderful embellishment. Peel and cut ripe pears into about 2 cups of small cubes. When the rice is almost done, gently stir in the pears, and cook for just a minute. Turn off the heat, and finish the risotto with Gorgonzola and grana, as detailed below.
Recipe information
Yield
serves 6
Ingredients
RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
Preparation
Step 1
Heat the stock in a separate pot almost to the boil. Keep it very hot, near the risotto pan.
Step 2
Put the olive oil in the risotto pan, and set over medium heat. Add the onions and 1 teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are wilted and just starting to color, about 6 minutes. Add the rice all at once, raise the heat, and stir for a couple of minutes, until the grains are toasted (but not browned). Pour in the wine, and cook, stirring continuously, until nearly all of the liquid has been absorbed.
Step 3
Ladle in 2 cups of the hot stock, and stir steadily as the rice absorbs the liquid and begins to release its starch. When you can see the bottom of the pan as you stir, after 5 minutes or so, quickly ladle in another couple of cups of stock and the remaining teaspoon salt. Cook, stirring, until the stock again is almost completely absorbed, and then ladle in another cup or so of stock. Continue this process, and check the risotto for doneness after about 6 cups of stock have been added, at about the 15-to-20-minute mark. Add more stock if needed, and cook until the risotto is creamy but still al dente.
Step 4
Turn off the heat. Scatter the pieces of Gorgonzola over the risotto, saving a few spoonfuls for a garnish. Sprinkle over it 1/2 cup of grated grana, and stir both cheeses into the risotto until incorporated. Spoon into warm pasta bowls, scatter the reserved bits of Gorgonzola over the top, and serve immediately, passing more grated cheese at the table.
