Cooking burnout is real.
Like folks who have had to cook mostāif not allāof their meals since the beginning of the pandemic, I have tired of cooking. I cherish quiet moments in the kitchen preparing food for the people I love, but right now, not even the cutest, tiniest honeynut squash from the farmers market could make me feel enthusiastic about planning and cooking yet another meal. Iāve long given up on cooking projects, and nowadays, I look for recipes that donāt feel like a choreāwhich is why Iām so enamored with Michelle McKenzieās new book, The Modern Larder.
McKenzie wants you to use whatās already on your shelf as a way to make simple meals special. The Modern Larder illustrates how outfitting your pantry well is the key to minimal-effort cooking that delivers big flavor. āI prefer to plan ahead so that the ālaborā doesnāt seem so laborious,ā she writes. The key, she says, is taking on small tasks when you do have timeāprepping compound butters, quick pickles, and other flavor-boosting garnishes, for exampleāso that when you donāt, mealtimes feel like a breeze. āHaving some of these homemade goods on hand,ā she declares, āis like having a quiver of wizardsā wands, each enabling breezy, beautiful weeknight meals with a shake, stir, or squeeze.ā
For McKenzie, a single ingredient can make a world of difference. Sometimes a meal might just need a little oomph, something you can get from a pantry staple or garnish. Some of these staplesāincluding whipped labneh, fried pine nuts, and miso-maple walnutsāare satisfying enough to stand on their own as snacks. The miso-maple walnuts, in particular, have rescued me from falling into the deep, dark, and miserable depths of a hangry pit, time and time again.
Like many of McKenzieās recipes, the miso-maple walnuts are exceedingly simple to make and require minimal prep. Theyāre something I constantly reach for when I want to graze on something thatās more satisfying and filling than a bag of chips or a bowl of popcornāhaving a jar of these on my shelf means that a salty-sweet and crunchy snack is always within armās reach.
Theyāre also a fast-track to adding flavor and texture to the simple meals I make on weeknights. Dressed in nutty ghee, earthy white miso, and a touch of maple syrup, these walnuts are just the right balance of savory and sweet with deep, warm notes of butterscotch. They complement the tart vinegars in salad dressings and add a pleasing crunch to dishes with softer textures, such as mashed sweet potatoes or roasted butternut squash. You could serve them with cocktails, or even give them as gifts to loved ones this holiday season. (After all, who doesnāt love an edible gift?)Ā
To make these nuts, all you have to do is combine the miso, ghee, maple syrup, and salt in a bowl, then toss the nuts in that mixture until theyāre thoroughly coated. Toast the coated nuts in the oven for 10 minutes or so, and youāll be met with the caramelized, glistening walnuts and their warm buttery aroma. You may be tempted, like I was, to start snacking on those walnuts immediately after removing them from the oven, at the risk of burning your mouth.
I recommend waiting for them to cool completely before you dive in. Burnout I can handle. A burnt mouth? No thank you.
