Sauce

In the kitchen of Piedmont's splendid country restaurants it is usually a woman who rules. Invariably, she has been schooled not by chefs, but by her mother, and her professional accomplishments are founded on the region's home cooking, a cuisine that, for finesse and variety, is unsurpassed in Italy, or even in Europe. One of the most gifted of these women is Ilvia Boggione of the restaurant Vicoletto in Alba. Among her specialties is this deft rendition of a classic game bird that is sometimes served with tajarin — thin homemade noodles. To call it sauce may be misleading, however, particularly if one's idea of a pasta sauce is something juicy and all-enveloping. There is nothing runny or sauce-like about this one. Quail is cooked until its meat slips succulently off the bone, and small bite-size pieces of it are nestled among the pasta strands. A more accurate description of the dish would be pasta with quail. Suggested pasta: Homemade noodles make the only satisfactory pairing for this sauce, particularly thick, square shaped tonnarelli or the broad pappardelle or fettuccine. In Piedmont (as noted above) they use tajarin, a thin noodle that in restaurants is made almost exclusively from a large number of egg yolks.

Use any mixture of berries in this simple, quick compote. It tastes great with the <a>raspberry torte</a> and over ice cream or pound cake. Active time: 5 min Start to finish: 5 min

This recipe is an accompaniment for Pear Clafoutis with Phyllo Crisps, Cider Sauce, and Quince Sorbet .

(Hot and Sweet Dipping Sauce)<P> This sauce is also delicious with grilled pork or lamb.<P> This recipe was created to accompany <epi:recipeLink ="14426">Thai Grilled Chicken</epi:recipeLink>.<P> Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe was created to accompany <epi:recipelink id="11837 ">Sliced Tomatoes and Mozzarella with Three Herb Pesto</epi:recipelink>. Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

Dried cherries and fresh cranberries pair beautifully. Cloves are a festive touch.

Can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.

This recipe originally accompanied Passover Chocolate Torte with Raspberry Sauce .

The bouquet garni for this stew includes orange peel (use a vegetable peeler to make wide strips) and some of the wispy fronds from the top of the fennel bulb that goes into the soup.

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less. Inspired by Florida chef Norman Van Aken's mango habanero mojo, this sauce is a wonderful accompaniment to grilled pork or chicken. Be sure to wear protective gloves while mincing the chile.

Our food editors were evenly divided concerning which dipping sauce they preferred with the duck salad. Some liked the nuoc cham because of the depth of flavor imparted by the fish sauce; others leaned toward the sweetness and heat of the chile sauce. Make one or both, depending on your taste.