Smoke

Slowly cooked ribs glazed with a spicy-sweet tomato-based sauce are the signature of K.C. barbecue. If you don't have a smoker, cook the ribs in a barbecue that has been converted to one. It may be necessary to cut the racks into four- to five-rib portions so that they all fit on the grill at once.

To make these slow-cooked ribs, the barbecue is used like a smoker. The instructions given here are for a standard 22 1/2-inch Weber kettle barbecue. Grilling times and vent adjustments will vary with different brands of barbecues, and it may be necessary to cut the rib racks into four- or five-rib portions so that they’ll all fit on the grill. The only special equipment needed is a charcoal chimney, which is available at most home and garden stores and hardware stores.

Because the heat on individual grills varies, cooking times will range from about 30 minutes to one hour. Be sure to regulate the barbecue so that the wood chips smoke and the briquettes burn but do not flame. When the salmon is ready, it will have a nice firm texture and a lovely sweet glaze. For drinks, offer coffee, orange juice and mimosas.

Pork shoulder bacon may not get quite as crisp as belly bacon, but it has a great taste and a meaty texture. Even if you have a thermometer for your grill, you'll still need an instant-read — the grill thermometer won't register low enough to monitor the cold-smoking.

If you have a gas grill and want great smoky flavor, soak hickory-wood chips in water one hour. Drain well; place chips in a disposable aluminum pie pan directly over flames (or over lava rocks if they are part of the grill's design). Allow chips to begin smoking, then grill vegetables until tender. This recipe is an accompaniment for Spicy Barbecued Rib-Eye Steaks with Smoked Vegetable Salsa .

Texans like their barbecue spicy, in the tradition of the Southwest, which is chili pepper country. For this recipe, you'll need to order a U.S.D.A. "choice" grade, packer-trimmed brisket: That's a brisket with none of the fat cut off. Before being cooked, the meat is seasoned with a dry rub; during cooking, it is brushed regularly with a beer-based mop. You'll need to use a smoker for the brisket (a converted barbecue won’t maintain the very low heat required), and to get the most authentic Texas flavor, seek out the natural lump charcoal specified in the recipe; it's available at barbecue stores, some natural foods stores and some supermarkets.

At the Marriott Downtown, in Anchorage, chef Patrick Hoogerhyde serves this as a starter, but we like it as a main course.

While our directions call for lighting the grill with a charcoal chimney, feel free to use whatever method you prefer.