For reasons that elude me, cakes are reputed to require long hours in the kitchen, when anyone who actually makes cakes knows that cookies are the true time suck. Cookies require measuring out portions and multiple batches. Cakes get mixed up and go into the oven all at once. The most complaisant ones even cool in their pans and require no icing.
All of which is why if you look back in the Times archives at recipes from thirty or more years ago, when most people cooked every day, there were many more cake recipes. Cake was a staple you whipped up every couple of days, after the previous one had vanished into crumbs.
Teddie's apple cake is a typical standby of the period. None of the ingredients are difficult to find—most are probably already in your pantry. Based on oil rather than butter, the cake has a light, airy crumb that's delicious while it lasts, with walnuts, raisins, and slivers of apple threaded through the cinnamon-scented cake. There is no icing, and no need for it.
When I asked readers for their favorite recipes from the Times, this one was near the top, with thirty-seven votes. Like many of the most recommended recipes, it shares three qualities: ease, good flavor, and someone's name in its title. Unfortunately, I still have no idea who Teddie is.
Recipe information
Yield
Serves 8
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter and flour a 9-inch tube pan. Sift together the flour, salt, cinnamon, and baking soda.
Step 2
2. Beat the oil and sugar together in a mixer with a paddle (or in a bowl with a hand mixer) for 5 minutes. Add the eggs and beat until the mixture is creamy. Stir in the dry ingredients. Add the vanilla, apples, walnuts, and raisins and stir until combined.
Step 3
3. Turn the batter into the prepared pan. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan before turning out.
Step 4
4. Serve with vanilla ice cream, if desired.
Cooking notes:
Step 5
If mixing the batter in a mixer, use a paddle attachment and turn the speed to low once you add the flour mixture, or the texture of the cake will be tough. Even better, mix the rest by hand.
Step 6
The recipe called for Red Delicious or McIntosh apples, but I'd recommend a variety that's brighter in flavor and firmer in texture, such as a Honeycrisp, Macoun, or Granny Smith.
Step 7
The apple slices can be halved if you want a more uniform texture.
Step 8
This cake can be eaten at any time of day, including breakfast. If you serve it for dessert, the recipe suggested a scoop of vanilla ice cream on the side. I prefer to whip 1/2 cup of heavy cream to soft peaks, then fold in crème fraîche to taste.
Readers:
Step 9
"I most recently baked this cake for Thanksgiving 2004. There was a small piece left over and several days later (it keeps beautifully), I wrapped it in aluminum foil and took it to NYC for my son and daughter-in-law. He took it from me and started looking around his kitchen. When I questioned him, he said he had to hide it from his wife."
Step 10
Rochelle Rogers-Lippin, Huntington, NY, letter
Step 11
SEPTEMBER 30, 1973: "JUST DESSERTS," BY JEAN HEWITT. RECIPE BY TEDDIE.
—1973
