Name: Braised Beef Cheeks
Yield: Makes 4 main-course servings
Ingredients: 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 4 (12-oz) beef cheeks, trimmed of excess fat; 1 medium onion, finely chopped; 1 medium carrot, finely chopped; 1/2 celery rib, finely chopped; 1/2 teaspoon unsweetened cocoa powder; 2 cups red wine (preferably a dry Lambrusco or Chianti); 1 (28- to 32-oz) can whole tomatoes including juice, chopped (3 cups); 1 1/2 teaspoons salt; 1 teaspoon black pepper

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Guancette di Manzo

When braised, these beef cheeks become meltingly tender, with a rich, deep flavor. You may want to check with your butcher when planning this dish, since it's often necessary to order beef cheeks ahead of time. At Uno e Bino, Cesanese wine is used in the braising liquid, but it's difficult to find in the United States. A dry Lambrusco or Chianti makes a good substitute.

Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to Finish: 4 1/4

Cooks' note:

• Beef cheeks improve in flavor if made up to 2 days ahead. Cool, uncovered, then chill, surface covered with parchment paper or wax paper and pot covered with lid. Remove any solidified fat before reheating.

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