Asparagus and Lemon Risotto

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Snap off the ends of: 1 pound asparagus.

   Step 2

   Cut the spears on the diagonal into 1/4-inch pieces.

   Step 3

   Remove the zest from: 1 lemon.

   Step 4

   Cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice. Melt in a heavy-bottomed 2 1/2-to 3-quart saucepan over medium heat: 2 tablespoons butter.

   Step 5

   Add: 1 small onion, diced fine.

   Step 6

   Cook until the onion is soft and translucent, about 10 minutes..

   Step 7

   Add: 1 1/2 cups risotto rice (Arborio, Carnaroli, Baldo, or Vialone Nano).

   Step 8

   Cook the rice, stirring now and then, until translucent, about 4 minutes. Do not let it brown.

   Step 9

   Meanwhile, bring to a boil and then turn off: 5 cups chicken broth.

   Step 10

   Stir the lemon zest into the sautéed rice, then pour in: 1/2 cup dry white wine.

   Step 11

   Cook, stirring fairly often, until all the wine is absorbed. Add 1 cup of the warm chicken broth and cook at a vigorous simmer, stirring occasionally. When the rice starts to get thick, pour in another 1/2 cup of the broth and add some salt (how much depends on the saltiness of the broth). Keep adding broth, 1/2 cup at a time, every time the rice thickens. Do not let the rice dry out. After 12 minutes stir in the cut asparagus. Cook until the rice is tender but still has a firm core, 20 to 30 minutes in all. When the rice is just about done, stir in half the lemon juice and: 1 tablespoon butter, 1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese.

   Step 12

   Stir vigorously to develop the creamy starch. Taste for salt and lemon juice, adding more as needed. Turn off the heat, let the risotto sit uncovered for 2 minutes, and serve. Add a splash of broth if the rice becomes too thick.

2. Variations

   Step 13

   Stir 2 or 3 tablespoons chopped chervil or parsley into the risotto before serving.

   Step 14

   Clean 1 pound scallops, removing the small muscle (the “foot”) attached to their sides. If they are very large scallops, cut them in half horizontally—so that you end up with 2 thinner disks of scallop. Stir the scallops into the risotto 5 minutes before it has finished cooking.

   Step 15

   Add 1 pound peas, shelled, 10 minutes before the risotto has finished cooking. Garnish with chopped chervil or a few fresh spearmint leaves cut into thin ribbons.

   Step 16

   For a winter squash risotto, omit the lemon and asparagus. Peel 1/2 small butternut squash and remove the seeds and strings from the inner cavity. Cut into small dice. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a heavy-bottomed pan, add the squash with a few leaves of fresh sage, and season with salt. Cook over medium-low heat until the squash is just done, cooked through but not soft. Add the cooked squash 5 minutes before the risotto has finished cooking. (Alternatively, add sage to the sautéing onions and stir the raw diced squash into the risotto with the second addition of broth.) This works well with parsnips, carrots, and celery root also.

   Step 17

   For a potato and pancetta risotto, omit the lemon and asparagus. Peel and dice small 2 large yellow potatoes. Dice 2 slices pancetta. Add the pancetta to the onions while they are sautéing. Stir the potatoes into the rice with the first addition of broth.

   Step 18

   For a grilled radicchio risotto, omit the lemon and asparagus, and just before serving, stir in about 2 cups chopped grilled radicchio (see page 312).