Southern

The lull between the main course and dessert is the best time to top the sweet potato pie with meringue and brown it. Cooks tempted to do this several hours ahead should be aware that the meringue will most likely weep.

The name Newman was once a staple only in Hollywood; today, it's a staple in kitchens all across the country. That is largely the result of the efforts of two people: Paul Newman, who founded the Newman's Own line of food products in 1982, and his daughter Nell, who expanded the brand with Newman's Own Organics 11 years later. All profits of both companies go to charities. And what dessert gives this giving family the greatest comfort? "Pecan pie," says Nell, whose mother—actress Joanne Woodward—grew up in the South. "I've always loved pecan pie and the smell of toasting pecans and burnt sugar that goes with it. My aunts Betty Lane and Nina still send their pecan pies up from Georgia at the holidays." This update on the sweet southern classic has the true taste of maple and some whole wheat flour in the crust.

This variation on the southern staple can be prepared easily with ingredients one usually has on hand. It's hearty, flavorful, and foolproof — a good choice when you come home from work and need supper in a hurry.

For a real southern meal, pair this dish with the bacon scallion hush puppies.

This dish is a holiday staple in Southern coastal cities. It can be served with the rest of the meal on the holiday buffet table, but my friend Marion likes to have it ready to go in the oven in case the meal is delayed and tempers get short. It soothes and warms enough to keep the hungry waiting. I'd set out little bread-and-butter plates and forks and put the casserole in the living room. Not all inland eaters have acquired a taste for oysters; they are especially delicious during winter holidays as either a traditional delicacy or exotic fare.

"My mom taught me how to cook — mostly the meat-and-potatoes fare favored in my native north Texas," writes Judy Wilkins of Tyler, Texas. "I'll always have a fondness for that kind of meal, but now that I live in a town closer to Louisiana, I've developed a love for Cajun food. Out of necessity, I've also developed a love for quick cooking. Between my musician's hours (nights and weekends) and teacher's hours (daytime piano lessons), my schedule can be nuts. When I do have the chance to cook dinner on a weeknight, whatever I make can't take too long — and it has to taste great." With this communal dish, the mess is part of the fun. Lay down newspapers on the table and invite guests to peel-and-eat. And serve crusty bread for sopping up the juices.

If you can, buy fresh shrimp with shells and heads still intact. If the heads have been removed, don't worry. Peel the shrimp and use the shells to make shrimp stock. Put the shells (and heads) in a small stockpot. Add 6 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, for about 1 hour. Remove from the heat, strain through a fine sieve, and set aside. If you don't have shrimp stock, water can be substituted.

A long cooking time for collard greens is a southern tradition. We sliver ours, then sauté them only for 1 minute, which renders them crisp-tender but allows the greens to keep their color and full flavor.

Serve these spicy grilled shrimp with bread for sopping up all the sauce.

This salad is dressed with a red pepper and tomato sauce.

"I'm a social worker running my own practice," writes Susan Haskell of Boston, Massachusetts. "In addition, I'm getting a doctorate in social work. So most of my time is spent either working with patients or writing my dissertation. Still, no matter what's on my schedule, nothing can stop me from going into the kitchen. During the week, I make the time to pore over food magazines to find recipes I want to try. On Saturdays, I cook for friends — because next to cooking, sharing the results is my favorite thing to do." The spicy mayonnaise adds a nice kick.

This cake is a southern tradition for festive occasions. It can be completely assembled and chilled one day before serving.

A sinfully rich dessert that's amazingly easy to prepare.

Sweet potatoes have been cultivated in the South since at least the 1700s. A touch of cardamom gives this dish modern flair.

Oyster-roast masters like Louis Osteen, who have been doing this for years, use huge pits or grills that are large enough to cook sausages, oysters, and clams all at the same time. We recommend using whatever type of oyster is locally available to you. Examine them carefully—discard any that smell bad. If any are cracked or open, and don't close when tapped, discard those as well. When roasting oysters, it's important to keep them moist enough to create steam (hence the soaked burlap or water in the roasting pan). If roasted dry, they can explode. To make this menu simpler, you could skip making the clams; there will still be plenty of food for everyone.

For an extra burst of orange flavor, mix some unsalted butter with grated orange peel to accompany these homespun biscuits.